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Miriam's Garden: The best beans are the ones you grow
Thursday, August 14, 2008

It's a little quiet in the garden these days, just as it's a little quiet in the house. Our house guests, Chicago friends, have left. Our dinners are simpler and the dogs have less to bark about.

The tomatoes are still contemplating turning ripe.

Even the green beans are quiet, still green but with just a few blossoms, and I thought that would never happen. Just as with the cucumbers and the fresh, sweet spring onions, I miss them. I wish there were more.

I did plant a new short row of Romano-style bush beans. They're out of the ground, standing proud at 3 inches tall. Whether or not they'll make beans is another matter. I've got hope.

I grew the most beautiful beans this year. Lots of times, lured by a glossy catalog, I buy too many different varieties and plant a huge row. Then beans become a chore: bending, picking, trimming, cooking. Even though they taste great -- unlike store beans, which often taste old -- they're the first vegetable I willingly give away.

This bean year was different, though I still gave some away. I think I planted the best types of beans. My favorite was a long, flat-podded, Romano-variety yellow bean from Seeds of Change called Goldmarie Vining. An heirloom saved from extinction by clever gardeners, they were tender and almost creamy in texture. The vine grew as tall as the fabled beanstalk. I'm on the short side (OK, very). I had to recruit taller pickers.

Also in the bean patch were green Roma pole beans and White half-runner beans, aka state half-runners. They're popular in West Virginia and, I think, the best all-around green bean. The name refers to the white seeds. I have never had any luck with Blue Lake beans or Kentucky Wonder beans.

Beans are categorized by growing habits: pole beans, half-runners or bush beans. Pole beans grow tall and need support, something to vine around. We use bamboo poles because we grow bamboo. Pole beans are supposed to keep producing until frost, but mine have slowed way down. We'll see.

Half-runners send out shoots (or runners) but supposedly don't need poles to vine around. But if support is available, they'll find it. This year, mine entwined themselves with the other pole beans.

Bush beans grow on low bushes. They're the ones that produce heavily and all at once and make your back hurt.

Some beans have wonderful folksy names: Greasy or Greasy-Back (or creased backed), which have oily-looking seeds; Red Valentine (they have curved pods); Lazy Wife (no strings); Cornfield (they wind around corn stalks); Short-Cut or Cutshorts (short pods.)

And there's my new favorite bean, the Goldmarie Vining. I wonder who she was?

My Chicago friend, caterer Nancy Backas, who visited us with her husband, is of Greek heritage. She made this aromatic bean dish and we loved it. You can find vegetables prepared in a similar manner in Greek homes and restaurants, but often the beans are cooked to death. Nancy likes them to have some snap.

FASOULAKIA

PG TESTED

Nancy Backas explained the name means "little beans." If your beans seem on the tough side, blanch them in boiling water for a couple of minutes first. Dill can be added instead of mint.

  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • 11/2 pounds tender green beans, ends trimmed, cut in half
  • 2 large ripe tomatoes, cored, cut into big chunks
  • Kosher salt
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves (or snipped dill)
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Freshly ground black pepper

In Dutch oven or large heavy saucepan over medium heat, warm oil. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add cinnamon and crushed red pepper; cook and stir 30 seconds.

Add beans, stir to coat well with oil. Cook, stirring often, adding 2 to 3 tablespoons water if pan gets dry, until the beans' color begins to brighten, about 5 minutes.

Add tomatoes and a sprinkling of salt. Stir well, reduce heat, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are saucy and beans tender but still have integrity, 18 to 20 minutes.

Remove from heat. Stir in fresh herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Makes 4 cups, or 4 to 6 servings. -- Nancy Backas

Miriam Rubin, a cookbook author and food writer, tends her kitchen garden in Greene County.
First published on August 14, 2008 at 12:00 am